Ah, the Curly Girl Method. It’s really taken the internet by storm lately, hasn’t it? But as with so many things on the interwebs, when it comes to CGM, there is a LOT of information to wade through—like, a lot a lot. How do we know what to believe? Or where to start?
A few of our curly-cutting specialists are giving us the breakdown on what it is, the pros and cons of taking on the method, and a few tips for any curly-curious friends out there interested in incorporating it into their haircare routine.
First things first, what is the Curly Girl Method?
Created by hairstylist Lorraine Massey, the Curly Girl Method is a set of guidelines specifically designed to enhance and maximize curly hair, from waves to tight coils. Regardless of the gendered name, the method is not meant to be gender-specific, and according to Molly, “The term comes from Massey’s book Curly Girl: The Handbook, which is full of useful tips on at-home care/remedies for curly hair.”
Ligeia breaks the method down into two components:
“The Rules: No shampoo, sulfates, silicones, alcohol, terry cloth towels, or hot tools. These are the OG rules. Massey is okay with the use of diffusers on low heat, low speed.
The Steps: Cleanse (with a co-wash or gentle shampoo that complies with the rules, such as KEVIN MURPHY’s RE.STORE). Then Condition and Style. Reset (also known as Clarify, is washing the hair as many times as needed to get it squeaky clean—this is done infrequently, if at all, once someone has committed to the method. It is not one of Massey’s steps, but one that many folks choose to include. If it is right for you, KEVIN.MURPHY’s MAXI.WASH works well).”
While there are many rules and guidelines listed in the book, Stina says her top three are:
“1. Wash less. As a society, we tend to over-wash, and since curly hair is naturally drier due to the shape of the hair follicle, this can make it even more dry. If you currently wash daily, try skipping Sundays. There are also alternate options to help keep you looking fresh, such as using KEVIN.MURPHY’s RE.STORE on every other “wash,” which is a repairing treatment.
“2. Be gentle. I know it feels great to get stuck on a snag in our hair. If we rip right through it there are two ends: 1) you compromise the curl by straining it, or 2) you break the hair. Instead, invest in a brush or comb for wet hair and keep it in the shower. Brush while you have conditioner in your hair. Only brush again if it is part of your product application. Your fingers are also a great option.
“3. Switch to a hair wrap. Instead of using your regular terry cloth towel, squeeze the water out with your hands and then wrap your hair up using a hair wrap made especially for curls or your favorite super worn t-shirt. Anything with little to no texture so you don't rough it up.”
“Nowadays,” Molly adds, “I think the term ‘Curly Girl Method’ has turned into a major social media concept that encompasses all sorts of different styling techniques, product knowledge, and even lifestyle changes. Simply put, I think it’s the idea of not over-cleansing your hair and air drying/diffusing in a way that enhances natural curl patterns to their best bounce.”
What are the pros of using this method?
Nicki: It promotes health, enhancing your natural hair without using damaging products or tools to make it do something it doesn’t want to do on its own.
Joy: There's a huge online community of folks with curly hair, and the information sharing is pretty amazing. There are a lot of great tips and tricks that can be super helpful when figuring out the best way to style your hair—really good foundational info that will serve you well. @atoyabass has some really great tips.
Dakota: Longevity of your natural curl pattern, less frizz, smooth/fuller feeling hair, and reduced breakage.
Ligeia: Hopefully, falling in love with your hair. I meet a fair amount of clients that dislike their hair because they have never seen its natural potential. It's an excellent way for people to learn how to take care of their curls if they don't know where to start, and it is also reasonably accessible because it doesn’t have to require a huge monetary investment.
Molly: Um, embracing that natural BUH-BAMM, duh! What’s better than encouraging your hair to do what it ACTUALLY wants to do? By focusing on rehydration and styling naturally (aka without smoothing or straightening) people are finding their curls coming back to life. Also, I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but it’s pretty moist in the PNW. Trying to keep a smooth blow-out in this climate is really just an uphill battle.
What are the cons?
Joy: The CGM loves rules. Curly hair is a little chaotic—that's something I love about it. So applying "ALWAYS" and "NEVER" to hairstyling is a pretty big turnoff for me. Just because I have curly hair doesn't mean I magically have the budget to purchase six different products or the time to plop my hair for an hour. I also want to be able to blow it out every once in a while without feeling like I'm doing something wrong. Plus, calling it "Curly Girl" gives me the ick. Curly hair has nothing to do with gender.
Dakota: TIME. It takes time to do the full process and to adjust the products you are using to figure out what works best in your hair.
Ligeia: It can potentially lead to under-cleansing/questionable scalp health. It’s important to remember there’s a scalp under there! Some people go quite a while—weeks even—in between shampoos but eventually, the hair and scalp need to be cleansed of dirt and buildup.
Molly: If you’re starting from scratch, you’re probably going to have to find what works best for you. The internet is a super overwhelming place with way too much information. Everyone is an expert now and is giving curly hair advice. In the real world, we all have different curl types, body chemistry, lifestyles, and live in different climates. The Curly Girl Method can be a bit trial and error, but you can also have a lot of fun with it. Also, I’m pretty sure curls don’t have a gender so let’s just change it to the “Curly Method”! Tell your friends.
What would you say to someone who is interested in trying this method?
Nicki: Come meet with a trained professional at Ginger & Maude! Treat yourself to a Deluxe Shampoo & Dry + KM Treat.Me, or if you just want to learn some tips, a simple Shampoo & Dry. Be sure to let the office staff know that you’re a curly unicorn!
Joy: I think playing with different CGM tricks and then cherry-picking what works best for you is the way to go. The biggest thing to remember is curls love hydration!
Dakota: Make sure you give it 4-6 weeks before you give up! Hair takes time to adjust to big changes and you may not see the results you want right away.
Ligeia: Do it! However, remember to be patient. It can take time for your curls to fully respond to these techniques after possibly years of mistreatment. Pay attention to what works and what doesn't. Also, you might need a different haircut—if you've been wearing your hair straight, that cut might not work with your curls.
Molly: Go for it! If you see someone with your hair type, ask them about their routine!
Stina: If you want to start down a path of curly-hair wonder, I would book an Extended Haircut or Exended-Plus Haircut which will give us more time to talk about what you are doing, what can change, and what your goals are. If you are a visual learner, TikTok and the actual book Curly Girl: The Handbook are great places to start.
For more information, you can also check out this article on CGM and this blog post, both written by Massey herself, on her website, curlyworld.com.
Now, go bask in all your radiant curly glory. You’ve totally got this.